Water in oil in Engine
Water in oil in engine, the worst engine nightmare afloat. Water entry
into the lubricating oil of a marine diesel engine is one of the most damaging
contamination events that can occur. Even small amounts of water compromise the
oil’s ability to lubricate, cool, and protect internal surfaces. Left
uncorrected, water contamination leads to rapid wear, corrosion, loss of oil
pressure, and ultimately catastrophic engine failure. In marine environments, where
seawater, freshwater cooling circuits, and condensation are all potential
sources, the risk is considerably higher than in automotive engines
Understanding the mechanisms,
symptoms, and corrective strategies is essential for reliable operation. If
water enters engine lube oil, immediately stop the engine, identify and repair
the leak source, drain contaminated oil, flush the system, replace filters, and
refill with fresh oil. Conduct thorough inspections, monitor oil condition
closely, and implement preventive maintenance to safeguard bearings, reduce
corrosion, and restore reliability. If only it was that easy.
How Water Enters
Lubricating Oil
Cooling System
Leaks. The most common cause is
failure within the engine’s cooling system. Typical failure points:
- Heat exchanger tube leaks:
Saltwater or freshwater breaches the tube bundle and enters oil passages at the
cooler interface.
- Oil cooler failure: A corroded
or cracked oil cooler core can leak seawater directly into the oil galleries.
- Cylinder head gasket failure:
Cooling water from the jacket space passes into the combustion chamber or oil
galleries.
- Corrosion in water jackets:
Pitting corrosion or cavitation damage breaks through into oil cavities.
How Water Enters
Lubricating Oil
Cooling System
Leaks. The most common cause is
failure within the engine’s cooling system. Typical failure points:
- Heat exchanger tube leaks:
Saltwater or freshwater breaches the tube bundle and enters oil passages at the
cooler interface.
- Oil cooler failure: A corroded
or cracked oil cooler core can leak seawater directly into the oil galleries.
- Cylinder head gasket failure:
Cooling water from the jacket space passes into the combustion chamber or oil
galleries.
- Corrosion in water jackets:
Pitting corrosion or cavitation damage breaks through into oil cavities.
How Water Enters Lubricating Oil
Condensation. Small diesel engines on yachts
often operate for short durations. This generates milky emulsified oil (“mayonnaise”) often seen under the rocker cover. When they do not reach full operating
temperature, moisture accumulates from:
- Internal condensation during
cooling
- Atmospheric humidity entering
via crankcase breather
- Repeated cold starts
Seawater Backflow
This can be caused by several events or combination of events
- Improper exhaust installation (including water trap)
- Failed anti-siphon vent may allow seawater to enter cylinders. Water then
drains past piston rings into the sump. (see vented loop page)
- Hydrolock event which may be part of the other problems. (see hydrolock page)
Fuel Contaminated
With Water
Diesel containing free water contributes moisture to the crankcase
through blow-by or via injection system failure
Effects of Water
Contaminated Oil on Engine Components
Even low levels of water
(above ~0.1%) severely reduce the protective properties of engine oil with the following results:
- Loss of lubrication
- Water displaces the oil film,
causing:
- Metal-to-metal contact
- Scuffing of bearings and
journals
- Accelerated ring and liner
wear
- Corrosion
Water reacts with metal
surfaces, producing:
- Rust on crankshaft, camshaft,
tappets, and rocker gear
- Pitting corrosion on bearings
- Corrosive acids when mixed
with combustion byproducts
- Oil degradation
Water forms stable emulsions
with:
- Detergents
- Dispersants
- Additives
These emulsions:
- Become thick and milky
- Block oil passages
- Reduce heat transfer
- Increase sludge formation
- Bearing failure
Hydrodynamic bearings rely on
stable viscosity. Water accelerates:
- Bearing shell erosion
- Delamination
- Tin/aluminium corrosion
- Reduction in oil pressure
Water lowers viscosity, and
emulsions aerate easily, both reducing stable oil pressure at the crankshaft.
Water in Oil in Engine - Symptoms and
Detection Methods
Water in Oil in Engine Visual Indicators
- Milky, creamy oil on dipstick
or under rocker cover
- Oil level rising on dipstick
- Water droplets on filler cap
- Steam from breather or oil
separator
Operational
Symptoms
- Drop in oil pressure
- Elevated crankcase pressure
- Hard starting
- Misfire in cases of water
entering cylinders
Dipstick and Smear
Test. Rubbing a small amount of oil
between the fingers may reveal:
- Gritty feel (corrosion
particles)
- Milky texture indicating
emulsification
Water in Oil in Engine - Laboratory Oil
Analysis
Water in Oil in Engine professional oil sampling
provides the following information:
- Karl Fischer water content
measurement (A Karl Fischer water content measurement is a precise analytical technique that quantifies trace moisture in oil samples)
- Detection of sodium, potassium
(coolant indicators)
- Wear metals (Fe, Cu, Pb, Sn)
- Glycol contamination
- Oil viscosity shift
Pressure and
Cooling System Tests
- Cooling system pressure test
- Oil cooler integrity test
- Cylinder compression or
leak-down test to detect gasket leaks
Water in Oil in Engine Troubleshooting the Source
If Water Content
Is Moderate (Emulsion Present) then you need to investigate the following:
- Head gasket
- Oil cooler
- Heat exchanger
- Condensation from short-run
operation
If Seawater Is
Detected (High Chloride Levels). The possible causes are as follows:
- Oil cooler internal failure
- Exhaust backflow
- Seawater pump seal failure in
rare cases
If Freshwater
Coolant is present the indicators are as follows;
- High potassium/sodium from
coolant additives
If there are combustion gases in coolant the causes are possible as follows:
- Cracked head
- Cylinder liner cavitation
- Failed gasket
- Core plug corrosion
Water in Oil in Engine - Corrective Actions
STOP THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY! Running with water in oil
accelerates damage exponentially. The following is from my own lived experiences!
- Drain oil and remove water. You will have to use an oil extraction pump. In most cases the engine drain plug is inaccessible. If the engine was not hot the emulsified oil may be to thick to pump out using an extraction pump with small bore suction pipe. Consider lowering the viscosity of this emulsified oil with the addition of diesel oil or kerosine, I found the kerosine worked best.
- Drain the engine oil sump fully. Use the extraction pump if the drain plug cannot be accessed.
- Replace the oil filter. I bought several after market equivalents at half the Volvo filter cost, as you need to do multiple filter changes after each recovery phase.
- Flush with flushing oil or mineral oil. I used very low viscosity 0-10W which is used in some modern vehicles, and allowed easy extraction with the pump.
- Cranking over. To get oil over all internal components with oil I cranked over the engine in a serious of short 5 second runs. Isolate the fuel supply valve, isolate the seawater pump.
- Oil Change. After several crank over runs the oil filter was changed and oil checked for signs of water.
- Engine Oil Refill. Oil refilled with cheaper equivalent grade oil.
- Engine Run 1. If root cause has been identified and corrected, open fuel and seawater supply valves, then start the engine. Run for 5 minutes on low load and observe oil pressure gauge, and monitor engine for any issues. If running well increase and run at 50% load for 30 minutes to allow all engine parts to reach normal temperature. Monitor oil pressure and exhaust smoke colour. Stop engine.
- Engine Oil and Filter Change. Replace the oil filter. Pour out into a container oil from filter and check oil status, if emulsified, and anything else. Remove the oil and replace with manufacturers recommended oil.
- Engine Run 2. Start engine and run back to temperature under load, observe oil pressures. If all good stop engine.
- Root Cause Analysis. Identify the root cause.
Root Cause Analysis.
- Replace or rebuild oil cooler
- Replace head gasket
- Repair heat exchanger tubes
- Correct exhaust riser or
anti-siphon faults
- Replace cracked head or block
(rare but possible)
- Multiple Oil
Changes as outlined above
Following system repairs follow these steps which are as above.
- Perform 2–3 short-interval oil
changes along with filters
- Re-test oil for water
- Monitor oil pressure closely
Water in Oil in Engine - Preventative
Measures
Routine
Inspections
- Check dipstick daily during operation
- Inspect anti-siphon vents
monthly
- Monitor coolant loss
- Look for milky residue under
filler cap
- Maintain Proper
Exhaust Installation
- Ensure vented loop high point
is above waterline
- Confirm correct mixing elbow
height
- Use proper waterlock
dimensions
- Avoid excessive cranking that
can flood exhaust with seawater
- Service the Oil
Cooler and Heat Exchanger
- Clean and pressure-test every
1–2 years
- Replace corroded cores early
- Use correct sacrificial anodes
if required
- Run the engine at load (60%)
Allow engine to reach and
maintain:
- 80–90°C cooling temperature
- At least 30 minutes run time
-
This eliminates condensation buildup.
Use Quality Oil. High-quality marine diesel oil
with good detergency and rust inhibitors helps manage trace moisture.
Water in oil in Engine
Water ingress into lubricating
oil is a critical fault in any marine diesel engine. Whether from cooling
system leaks, seawater intrusion, or condensation, even small quantities of
water rapidly reduce lubrication quality, trigger corrosion, and lead to severe
mechanical damage if ignored. Early detection—via dipstick inspection, oil
sampling, and pressure testing—combined with prompt corrective action greatly
extends engine life and reliability. By maintaining proper exhaust
installation, servicing the heat exchanger system, and running the engine to
full temperature, yacht owners can significantly reduce the risk of water in oil in engine contamination and preserve the health of their marine diesel engines.